Easy DIY Wall Mounted Folding Table Workbench from a Door

Build your own DIY folding workbench for your garage in just one day! This beginner tutorial and woodworking plan uses a solid core door and inexpensive lumber to make a wall mounted folding table for under $100, perfect for woodworking and other DIY projects.

You can also build a large folding portable work table or upgrade your garage workshop with a DIY table saw workbench with storage.

DIY Folding Workbench for the Garage

I have a love hate relationship with my garage.

I love it when it is clean, and I can actually park in it.

I hate it (90% of the year) when it isn’t!

I had this great idea to use a paint covered folding table as my work table in the garage. In reality, the table turned into a dumping ground. After almost every project we work on around the house the tools, and remaining parts end up on that table. I’d share a picture, but it is too embarrassing!

I finally had it last week, and cleaned everything off and took the table out of the garage. Now I need a table. So why not build one?

Here are my “work table” must haves:

1. Able to be easily put away so messes can’t accumulate
2. Sturdy and strong enough for building furniture
3. Large working area

Seems like a pretty short list, but it’s what I need! So after a quick turn around the world wide web for inspiration I give you The Wall Mounted Folding Table Workbench.

I’m sharing all the info about how to build your own (plus a quick DIY hack for an even faster wall mounted folding table!) so keep reading for the detailed assembly instructions.

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What makes this DIY wall mounted folding table affordable and easy

This minimalist DIY folding workbench or desk has a few key features:

• easy to build (no over-engineering needed here!)
• easy to fold up to clear up garage space
• gives you a large solid wood work table surface
• all for under $100 in materials!

The secret to this fast and easy wall mounted folding table is that I used a solid core wood door instead of plywood for the tabletop.

A solid wood door (unbored) is an ideal solution for a workbench surface in a garage or shed (or for a wall mounted folding table desk) because it’s very smooth, very strong, no cuts required. And it’s a pretty affordable alternative to a sheet of plywood or two, with added durability. 

It just takes a few bucks in other lumber and a couple of hinges to turn a door into a large fold-up workbench for your garage or various sites where you need a drop-leaf table.  

You can adjust the size to make a standing desk or a laptop computer table for more study room, or even a space-saving dining table for a small apartment or narrow room. This drop-down folding table would make a great laundry room table for folding clothes, too! 

No casters, no shelves — just a strong and simple wall-mounted folding table that takes up no floor space.

You’ll need a pocket hole jig to attach the front table skirt. Other than that, a miter saw and nail gun make the build go faster, but you if you are just starting out and don’t have the tools, you can easily use a hammer and a hand saw with a miter box. Or maybe it’s a good time to invest in a circular saw or a miter saw!

Workbench Dimensions and Adjustments

The finished DIY folding workbench measures 36 inches (D) x 80 inches (W) x 41.25 inches (H) when built as shown. You can adjust the height to your ideal standing desk height, as well as adjusting the bench top width and depth by using a 78″ or 84″ solid core door.

• I used a 36×80 non-bored solid core hardwood slab door to make this large wall-mounted work table. Adjust the lengths of the 80″ lumber cuts if you are using a 78″ or 84″ door instead to fit your available wall space.
• The height of the folding workbench surface as listed is 41-1/4″. For a taller or shorter workbench, adjust the length of the legs (and the height that the ledger board is mounted).
  • Standard bar height is 42″ but for my (average) height the best standing desk height is just a little shorter than that, so I put the work bench height slightly lower but still tall enough to use a standard barstool.
  • Be sure that you can reach the top of the table when folded to secure the latch.

DIY Folding Workbench Material List

Here’s what you need to build your own fold-up garage work table — just a solid core door, 4 boards, and some hinges and hardware. You might already have some of these materials in your scrap pile.

Looking for a bargain? Be sure to check your local Habitat For Humanity ReStore for building materials and hardware!

Lumber

• 1 – 2x6x8
• 1 – 2x4x8
• 1 – 2x2x8
• 1 – 1x4x8

When choosing lumber, be sure to follow these tips and tricks to choose the best and straightest boards. This is especially important when you are using less expensive cuts like furring strips.

Other materials and hardware

• 1 – 36″x80″ solid core door (new or reclaimed)
• # – 2-1/2″ or 3″ wood screws
• # – 1-1/2″ wood screws
• 10-12 – 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws
• 2 – 1-1/2″ small hinges
• 3 – 3″ door hinges
• 1 – 3-1/2″ safety hasp*

Note: There are several ways you can secure the fold-up workshop table to the wall. You could use hook and eye latches, a couple pieces of scrap wood, a barrel bolt lock, etc. I chose the heavy-duty hasp because it’s strong, easy to install, and locks easily.

Recommended tools

• Compound Miter Saw or Circular Saw
• Drill/Driver
• Air compressor
• Finish nail gun (with 2-1/2″ finish nails)
• Pocket hole jig like a Kreg Jig
• Level
• Pencil
• Clamps (optional)

Cut List

• Ledger: cut 1 – 2×6 @ 80″
• Workbench Support: cut 1 – 2×4 @ 80″
• Leg Support: cut 1 – 2×4 @ 6″
• Hinge Supports: cut 2 – 2×4 @ 2″
• Legs: cut 2 – 2×2 @ 38″
• Table Skirt: cut 1 – 1×4 @ 80″

Parts Preparation

In the leg support (2×4 @ 6″), drill 3 pocket holes along one long edge.

Pre-drill 3 holes through each hinge support piece (2×4 @ 2″) for attaching later.

In the table skirt piece (1×4 @ 80″), drill pocket holes 2″ from the ends, and about every 8-10″ along the length of the board.

Lightly sand all pieces. You can seal with an optional coat of poly now or after building.

How to Build a DIY Folding Workbench

Step 1: Mark The Wall, Ledger, and Wall Studs

First, find the center of the wall space where your table will go — make sure your 80″ table will fit! Mark the 40″ center on the wall.

Next, mark the height of the 2×6 ledger, which will be 41-1/4″ from the floor. If you are taller or shorter, you can adjust this height to your preference. You’ll also need to adjust the length of your 2×2 folding workbench legs.

Mark the center (40″) of your 2×6 that you cut @ 80″.

Find and mark the stud locations. In my garage the walls weren’t painted so I could easily see where my wall studs were. You will want to find and mark where all of your studs are before you hang your 2×6 ledger board.

Step 2: Hang the Ledger

The ledger will hold the entire DIY folding workbench to the wall, so be sure it’s level and well-secured to the wall studs with heavy duty fasteners. You may need an extra set of hands for this step. 

Match the two center marks from the wall and the 2×6 ledger. Place the level on the board and make sure it is level at 41″.

Using the finish nail gun, place 3 or 4 nails in studs to hold the 2×6 in place.

Finish up by drilling 2 – 3″ screws through the 2×6 at each wall stud location.

Step 3: Hang the 2×4 Workbench Support

Measure down from the top of the ledger board 1-3/4″. This will be the mounting height for your 80″ 2×4 workbench support, and will allow the folding table to sit on the 2×4 while in use, adding stability to your table.

This next step is just like hanging the 2×6. The top of your 2×4 should be on your 1-3/4″ mark. Make sure the ends are flush with the 2×6, level the 2×4, and attach with 3-4 nails as before.

Then, drill 2 – 3″ screws through the 2×4 into the 2×6 at each stud location.

Step 4: Attach Hinge Supports to Table Top

Now it’s time to work on the actual table!

Unless you have super human strength you will want someone to help you move your solid core door to a suitable work location. In my case it was on the driveway because I didn’t have a work table! Sawhorses are a great addition to your workshop to elevate your work on a project like this.

Measure on the underside of your door 3-1/2″ from the front corner on both sides. Place the 2x4x2″ hinge support pieces behind the mark. You can use clamps to hold in place as well.

Screw 2×4 pieces into place using 2-1/2″ or 3″ screws. (I pre-drilled 3 holes in these pieces so they didn’t split when I drilled screws into them.)

For added security, you can also use wood glue with the screws.

Step 5: Attach the Table Skirt

Attach the table skirt to the underside of the workbench top at 1-1/2″ from the front edge, using pocket hole screws.

To install the front skirt piece I made a jig to speed up the process.

I used a leftover piece of the 2×2 and nailed it to a piece of 1×4. Then I placed the 2×2 side on top of the door, and pressed the skirt against it as I screwed the skirt to the underside of the table using the pocket holes. Make sure your ends are flush before you start attaching with pocket hole screws!

Step 6: Attach the Workbench Legs and Hinges

Attach the small hinges to the 2x2x38 legs. Mark center on the opposite side of the leg from the hinge on each leg, and mark center on the outside of the 2x4x2 pieces mounted to the table.

Line up the center marks, and attach the other side of the hinge to the inside of the 2x4x2 block.

I initially used the screws provided for this step, but found they allowed too much movement when lowering the door. So I replaced them with 2″ screws instead.

Step 7: Attach the Leg Support

Fold your legs so they sit against the underside of the table, and attach the 2x4x6 pieces using pocket holes  and 2″ screws so the board sits against the table legs. This is where the legs will rest when the table is folded up.

Step 8: Attach the Table to the Ledger with Hinges

Time to call in your heavy lifting helper again! While holding the legs in place, carry the work table to the ledger board you have already attached to the wall.

This is the moment of truth. Allow the legs to fold down, and place the back of the table on the 2×4. Your table should sit firmly on the ground. You may need to straighten the legs so they sit flush on the ground and on the 2×4 blocks on the underside of the table.

Tip: If the floor isn’t exactly level and you want a more secure leg contact with the ground, use a large washer under the leg.

Now measure a 1/2″ gap between the 2×6 and the back of the table. This will allow the hinge to move freely.

Attach the hinges to the table and the 2×6. I installed 2 hinges 4″ from the edge, and one in the center.

Test out those hinges with a helper! Fold your door up, and mark where the top edge meets the wall on a wall stud as close to the center of the table as possible. Lower your table down again. It’s fun isn’t it!

Two more final touches and you are done!

Step 9: Install the Hasp

This hasp and latch are the key to the “fold-up” part of the folding workbench. The twisting part of the hasp goes on the side of the work table, and the hinged part of the hasp goes on the wall (in the wall stud for secure attachment).

Measure where that stud is in relation to the end of your table. Transfer that measurement to the front of your table, and attach the twisting piece of the hasp to your table.

Install the hinged part of your hasp 1/2″ above the line you marked and the same distance from the end of the table.

Now you should be able to fold your table up and lock it in place! Try it out!

Step 10: Apply Finish Coat (Optional)

The final step is optional. I brushed on a coat of polyurethane to protect my table top. This one is totally up to you!

I hope you enjoy your new CLEAN workspace!

Next up for me is cleaning up the garage space, and I’m considering adding pegboard below the bench to store extension cords and other low-profile tools and materials.

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